Go to Huaqiao
There is a mountain in Yongping County, Dali Prefecture, Yunnan Province, called Bonan Mountain. The altitude is 2704 meters. The Southwest Silk Road opened in the Han Dynasty began in Sichuan and passed through Yunnan and Myanmar to India. Bannan Mountain is the only way to pass, and it is also the most dangerous section, which is known as the ancient road of Bonan.
There is a village called Huaqiao Village. There is a temple in Huaqiao Village, called Putu Temple. There are ancient plums in the temple. It is said that when the temple was built in the Yuan Dynasty, the monks in the temple were planted, so they were called Yuanmei.
From a monograph that studied plum blossoms, I knew this Yuanmei. On New Year’s Day in 2019, I brought the painting board, such as the decoupling fish, and I came all the way from Nanjing.
Huaqiao Village has retained the original appearance of the ancient road. The three -meter -wide stone road passed through the whole village along the mountain and meandering towards the top of the mountain. On both sides of the ancient road, there are taxes, inns, horses, post offices, and pharmacies. Unfortunately, it is the old tile of Chenwu.
Secretary Chen Hua Village rode a motorcycle and led the way in front. Brother Shidong in Dali followed closely. The Bonan Ancient Road was the road of horse gangs. The potholes were uneven. The stone pavement could hit the sound of pleasant horseshoe, but it made the motor vehicle difficult. The car seemed to be drunk, bouncing, swinging left and right. The slope was narrowed. When I was worried about how to get the car, I found the car on the face, and always found an hutong child or the triangle intersection to make the road for us. Brother Shu Dong saw a car on the face, and he would also find a place to park to let the other party go first. Everything is polite, tacit and natural. The only regret is that they occasionally disturb the small horses carrying dry firewood by the road, and the little boy holding the whip.
The village committee is on the upper end of the village. On the two rows of north and south, there is a yard in the middle. On the west of the yard, two plum trees are planted, which is the descendant of Yuanmei. One is to be placed and a bustling branch. The south row house, four on the first floor, office. There are only two and a half room on the second floor. A half of the kitchen, one for the dormitory and storage room. Secretary Chen pointed to a bed near the window, saying that you slept here! Come and send my Shidong brother to see the dirty quilt, and the rice bag on the bedside, dragging me and leaving, asking me to live in Yongping County. I smiled and said that the cattle and chickens from the farmers outside the window said: The hotels in the world look like, but the rural areas have their own characteristics! I like here!
Can’t wait to see Mei. Secretary Chen refers to a yard of 100 meters away on the terrace on the second floor, saying: Yuanmei is in the courtyard, the earliest is Puzhao Temple, later changed to the county, and then changed to school. Now it is the Bonan Ancient Road Museum. Intersection
Yuanmei and Pin Mei
The oldest plum tree in China is the three Yuanmei plums. And Huaqiao Village is the most painted.
Meixiang is not afraid of the countryside! The painters of Ai Mei, the South China Sea, came here.
On the third day, Mr. Tang Jian, the Chinese Academy of Art, took his disciples!
On the fifth day, Mr. Liu Xilin, China Art Museum, brought his disciples!
On the sixth day, Mr. Langsen, the Beijing School of Printing, brought his disciples!
On the ninth day, Mr. Fang Chuxiong, the Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts, brought his disciples!
Thousands of miles away, wading mountains and wading, all due to this Yuanmei. Gumei’s main pole is nearly two meters in diameter, and four -foot away from the ground is divided into four branches. Four branches are like four dragons, dancing all -round, extending to the square. The huge tree wings can avoid more than a hundred people. Some branches are bent, and vines are very strange. Mr. Liu Xilin was afraid that he was wrong and asked me: Xiao Liu, do you make sure it is plum branches and rattan?
When we came, the buds above the tree were full of flowers, and below was blooming, and the fragrance floated. When the mountain wind rises, the entire Huaqiao Village will be filled with the aroma of plum blossoms. It is particularly valuable that this 800 -year -old Gumei is growing vigorously. More than 500 pounds of plums can be concluded each year.
Mr. Langsen, an old painter in Yunnan, was moved by Lao Mei’s ancient clumsy, and he shot three noise to Lao Mei very devoutly. Mr. Tang Jian, like migratory birds, comes from Beijing to a portrait from Beijing every year.
Yes, not all painters can see such an old Gumei. This is the case today, and so is the ancients. Fan Chengda, Wu County in the Song Dynasty, visited Tianmei and he was “Plum Spectrum”. The book contains two ancient plums: one “go to Chengdu 20 miles, there are lying plums, more than ten feet of 蹇 蹇, legendary Tang objects,” “Meilong”, it is only five hundred years in the past. The other “Qingjiang Restaurant has Da Mei, such as several houses, there are more than dozens of people around them”, and Huaqiao Yuanmei Luo sitting There are more than a hundred people. From this, we can see that the Song Dynasty Yangzhi and the Yuan Dynasty Wang Yuanzhang and others, who are famous for painting plum, may not have seen ancient plums like Huaqiao.
I wandered under the tree for more than ten days. In the morning light of the birds, in the buzzing sun of the bee, in the evening wind of the falling Ying, I either around the tree, or the ears sticked the trunk to feel Gu Mei’s borrowing and listen to Gu Mei’s heart. The body of a plum body can be raised! The spirit of a plum can press the heroic posture of 10,000 plums! old! Miscellaneous! chaos! Deep! Bob! Turn! Ugly! Where is this tree? This is clearly a big mountain, a thousand -entered mountain!
As a result, the style of painting in my pen suddenly changed.
I don’t know if there is Huaqiao Village first, or the ancient road first. The village was built along the ancient road, and the ancient road passed through the village.
Putu Temple, built on the ancient road in the village.
Horseshoe, the ancient road is busy. Merchants come and go, the village is prosperous. The road is long, praying for peace, and the incense of Puzhao Temple is strong. A tea horse road revitalizes the village and the temple.
There is a ancient plum in the temple. The song is strong, and the moss is all over the moss. In the opening season, the travelers in Si Xiang took a few flowers and sent it to the family in the distance. Which young Mafu sneaked a branch and gave it to the girl in the village in front.
Three feet from Mei, there is an ancient tea tree, which is planted by Ming people. Both high, rough. Every year, it blooms from winter and has been driving until midsummer. The flowers are nine hearts and eighteen petals, which can be used as medicine. During the Republic of China, Dou Juyan, the secretary of the Yongping government, said:
Experience wind and frost, ask for a few lives here;
Steless, who has been gorgeous.
When I came, Gu Mei was still there, and the tea was gone. Puzhao Temple also moved to the hillside above the original site. The original site was changed to the ancient road museum, like an old man, telling the glory of the ancient road.
I climbed along the steep slope ladder to Puzhao Temple. The temple door is locked.
Go to ask Uncle He who guards the plum blossom. Is there no monk in Putu Temple? Uncle He smiled and said, where is the monk? The uncle of Wu in the village looked at it.
In those days, Uncle Wu was very busy. Below the Putu Temple, the west of Gumei is building a Temple of Wealth. The funds were voluntarily donated by the villagers, and Uncle Wu was responsible for financial work.
In a sunny morning, I walked into Putu Temple. There are Jade Emperor Pavilion, the Three Holy Palace, and Mother Hall in the temple. It is far from the “regulatory macro” contained in the Puzhao Temple in the Republic of China.
Uncle Wu took a peaked cap with a gentle vision and charity. In Putu Temple, the old man tirelessly gave me the “Holy Training” hanging on the temple:
The first, Dunxiao is emphasized;
Second, the clan of the Duki clan is Zhao Yongmu;
Article 3, fight against the township party to fight for lawsuit;
The fourth article, heavy farmers and mulberry are full of clothing and food;
The fifth, still frugal use for wealth;
Article 6, Long School is based on Duanshi;
Article 7, Chong Zhengxue;
Article 8, talk about the law to be foolish …
From the first glance of seeing Huaqiao Gumei, I thought about a question: Why is this ancient plum so long and lush? In addition to the thick soil of Bonan Mountain, and the rainy rain, is it really a godlike protection?
In the rigorous reading of Uncle Wu, I thought of the silent smile on the ancient road and the simple smile of the villagers. I seemed to find the answer.
Drunk Drinking Mei
On the night of the fifth day of the day of the Lunar month, he was drinking white wine with He Xingkun. Brother He resigned. Yu Jiu Xing Fang was strong, so he went to find the uncle He. Uncle He had slept and got up to set up wine under Gumei. The mountain village was silent, but he heard the water. Flower shadow mother -in -law, but sniffing plum incense. Uncle He also drinks well. The two are very happy, each drinking three or two. Poetry said:
Who is planted by a thousand -year plum blossom?
Under the moon, the shadow is a little moss.
Ememo Xianlin and Jing,
Huaqi Village, Huagu.
The mountain breeze came, and the British drifted into the wine glass. Yu Xi sighed: Lao Mei also came to drink together!
Suddenly, when I saw an old man, his clothes were simple, and his hair was all white. Please drink it, no. Yun: This place is Puzhao Temple, a pure place, how can you drink alcohol? If Lao Mei is delayed in wine, why does it get 800 life?
Wake up in the morning, stay in bed. Ask Uncle He, never seen the old man!
Liu Yuantang, Rushan, Shandong. Associate Professor of Nanjing Academy of Art.