Shirts, recognized as classics, are not easily outdated, not prone to mistakes, and very versatile. So walking on the street in spring and summer, you will find shirts all over the street, too easy to collide.
So here’s the problem
The same shirt,
How can others dress so well?
Today we will discuss how to wear a shirt differently – first of all, you must be scheming when buying a shirt.
The shirts look similar, the design principles are indeed quite uniform, and despite the subtle differences between designers and makers, everyone almost defaults to the lapel design.
But the simpler the design of clothes, the more important the details. The fun of shirts is reflected in the subtle details of buttons, lapels, collar cuts and cuff sizes.
French cuffs & neckline
So how do you pick the right shirt for you? The general pattern is in the details of the neckline and cuffs.
Shirt collar type
The neckline is a highly recognizable part of the shirt as it points directly towards the face. Its inverted triangle shape accentuates the face while also modifying the face shape of the wearer.
There are about ten collar types of shirts, and we have made a simple division according to the degree of formality:
The main differences between shirt collar types are three points
1. Collar size, that is, collar tip length and opening angle, collar back and neckline height;
2. The amount of space left for the tie;
3. The overall softness and hardness of the collar.
However, there are not so many commonly used collar types, basically four or five.
Among them, the English wide-angle collar and its various variants are the most formal, followed by pointed collars, rounded collars, and finally casual button collars.
Wide-angle collar
Angular collar
Rounded collar
Button collar
One collar
Cuban collar
1|Button collar
The button collar is casual.
Perhaps the reason for this is that the button-collar shirt was formerly a polo shirt – a shirt worn by polo players. It is characterized by the long collar tip tied to the shirt with buttons. This is done to avoid the tip of the collar turning up and slapping on the face when riding vigorously.
There are two permanent rules for the cut of button-collar shirts: 1. Between the two collar tips and collars, leave 1cm space for the tie; 2. Never match the double cuffs.
2|Rounded collar
Traditionally, rounded collars are second only to button collars in casual terms.
This collar is commonly found in men’s school uniforms, because Eton Public School uniform shirts use this collar type, so it is also called Eton collar, giving a vigorous impression.
If you enlarge the Eaton collar, it is the famous Peter Pan collar and doll collar of women’s clothing.
3|Angular collar
From any point of view, the angular collar fits the golden mean. The collar tip can be long or short, with single or double cuffs, and the pointed collar is the safest choice for business.
The tip of the collar can also be paired with accessories: a collar pin that pierces the collar, a collar stick that can be clipped to the collar.
The picture below is Xiao Lizi’s long point-collared shirt with a collar pin in “The Great Gatsby”.
And this one is Marlon Brando’s long-peaked shirt from “The Godfather”, and it is said that the long peaked collar has become the standard for Italian mafia shirts.
Friends who have watched “Goodfellas” should also remember the group of Italian mafias in the movie, with long pointed collars in a water.
4|Broad collar
The wide-angle collar is often referred to as the English collar because its founder was the Duke of Windsor (who preferred the wide tie knot, which provided more room for this preference). The wide collar is perfect for formal business occasions.
Wide-angle collars can actually be subdivided into one type: one-line collars. “One word” refers to the tip of the collar that is horizontal parallel and perpendicular to the neck.
The neckline gives people the feeling of clarity and rigor, which is suitable for occasions with a sense of ceremony.
The wide-angled collar can be worn with both single-layer and double-layer cuffs.
The Guide
How to choose the right shirt collar for you?
The aesthetic principle of choosing a collar size is quite simple: regardless of the current trend, the smaller the man’s body size (referring to the overall height and weight), the smaller the collar size; The longer the neck, the higher the collar height.
Tie space| depends on the type of bow tie chosen: the larger the bow tie, the more space there is (that is, a tie with a thick or complicated knot should usually be paired with a wide-collar shirt).
The softness of the collar | This point is purely a personal preference: some people like soft clothing, and do not care about the shirt is slightly wrinkled, showing a more lazy “casual” charm; Others want the collar to stand up to the severe pressure and always stand upright.
cuff
When we talked about each collar type above, we said whether it would be suitable for single-layer cuffs or double-layer cuffs. Because different cuffs can create different shirt styles.
1|Single-layer cuffs
Single-layer cuffs, also called barrel cuffs, are the most commonly used and the sleeve type most suitable for occasions, and various styles of coats can be matched.
There is no limit to the number of buttons, but it is generally best not to exceed three.
2|Double cuffs
Also called French cuffs, it has a double-fold design, which is a little more decorative than single-layer cuffs.
Because when wearing a suit, the shirt sleeves are part longer than the sleeves of the suit, and a French shirt that needs to wear cufflinks can inadvertently reveal “details” and show good taste.
3|Milan sleeve
Also called cocktail sleeves, they are a variant of the French cuff. It is said that because Italians jingle on the table when drinking cocktails, they changed to a curved folding sleeve style that does not require cuffs.
Therefore, compared with French cuffs, Milanese sleeves are less dignified and more casual and elegant. This is also 007’s favorite shirt sleeve type.
There is one more detail to note about the cuffs: the length of the sleeves.
Shirt sleeve lengths should be carefully measured to ensure that the bottom end of the cuff just covers the wrist bone. In this way, when the lower edge of the jacket cuff falls above the wrist bone according to the standard, the shirt cuff can be exposed just about two or three centimeters.
Other details
In addition, optional details on the shirt include: whether to have a placket, whether to have a back yoke, whether to leave a pleat under the back shoulder, and the details of the chest pocket.
However, there are no rules for these, and it basically depends on personal preferences.
…
Shirts, garments that are covered by a jacket for most occasions – whether blazers, sports jackets or more casual cardigans – force the shirt to make a fuss about the exposed parts of the neckline and cuffs.
The same shirt, how can you wear it differently from others? The answer lies in these details.
